Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon vs. Breitling Chronomat Blacksteel

Two chronographs robed in black and powered by in-house movements — the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon and Breitling Chronomat GMT Blacksteel go head to head in this comparative test.

Black cases are all the rage. So are in-house chronograph movements. Omega and Breitling combine both in two new swiss replica watches that here go head to head: the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, from Omega, and Breitling’s Chronomat GMT Blacksteel. The Breitling Chronomat was introduced in the 1940s, but the watch’s styling has been continually updated. The Chronomat GMT Blacksteel has a martial look to it: the gigantic, dark, matte-finished, 47-mm case is more than 18 mm thick; the screwed push-pieces and the rotating bezel, with its four applied cursors, look extremely sturdy. The replica watches weighs a hefty 209 grams. When you wear the Blacksteel, you almost feel as though you belong to a special-ops task force. The steel of the case is called “black,” but it really looks more like dark anthracite. The DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating is relatively scratch-resistant, but it is thin, and harsh treatment can leave silver-colored scratches on it.

The Omega Speedmaster has an illustrious and often-told history: unveiled in 1957, it was chosen for NASA’s manned spaceflight program in the 1960s. The high point of the luxury fake watches space career came in 1969, when Buzz Aldrin wore this model over the sleeve of his spacesuit while strolling across the lunar surface. This new rendition of the Speedmaster is more elegant than other versions thanks to its black case and dial, both made of zirconium dioxide ceramic. The white-gold hands and the applied white-gold indexes, which are coated with Super-LumiNova, look more luxurious than the white hands and applied luminous indexes on other Speedmasters. The black bezel and its tachymeter scale don’t contrast very strongly with the black case. Chrome nitride, which forms an uncommonly hard and very adherent coating, is used for the silver-gray lettering that’s inset along the ceramic bezel.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Dark Side of the Moon”

Breitling Chronomat GMT - Blacksteel

Omega vs. Breitling test

Monochrome Wednesday: Reviewing the Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue

Patek Philippe has been associated with perpetual calendar chronographs for several decades now. Not only was Patek the first to unite both complications in a wristwatch (with the ref. 1518), but the brand even added, in some references, a split-seconds function or a minute repeater to this already prestigious package. At the 2014 Baselworld watch fair, Patek introduced a new color to its “entry-level” perpetual calendar chronograph, a white gold case with a blue dial. We at Monochrome Watches were quite fortunate to get our hands on this Patek Philippe (Ref. 5270).

It’s quite difficult to imagine, but the best sale replica Patek Philippe 5270 is actually the simplest perpetual calendar chronograph of the collection; keep in mind that the two other references with these complications also feature a split-second (ref. 5204) or a minute repeater (ref. 5208). Clearly, though, the 5270 is not a simple watch. It is the latest edition in a long lineage that began with the reference 1518, the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph, introduced in the middle of the 1940s. This extremely rare bird was produced for only 13 years, in 281 pieces, and features a movement based on a Valjoux ébauche but highly modified and adorned with the Geneva Seal. A few years later, during the early 1950s, discount fake Patek Philippe launched the Reference 2499, an improved edition of the perpetual calendar chronograph. Very similar in design, the 3970 and the 5970 came after that, with minor improvements and updated shapes. But in 2011, the 5270 added something very interesting to this classical model: an in-house movement. No more Valjoux or Lemania base here, but instead pure Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - dial cuMake no mistake about this Patek Philippe 5270. Even if it looks very similar to the previous reference, nothing is the same. The design, layout, movement, case, size… everything is new, but remains classical. Patek Philippe chose not to break the codes, but intended to improve and modernize an icon, when it introduced this reference in 2011 with a silver-white dial. Now, in 2014, buy replica Patek Philippe has come out with new dials, including the blue one we had the chance to handle for a few hours.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - back

Before this new reference debuted, Patek Philippe would usually power its chronographs with a Lemania-based movement, Caliber 27-70. Even if that ébauche was deeply modified, both on the technical and finishing fronts, Patek at one point decided it couldn’t outsource anymore in an era in which the term “in-house” has gained so much importance. So the brand created a fully home-made movement, developed and manufactured in-house i.e., a manufacture movement. Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is a 32-mm manually wound engine that is impressive not only because of its complications, but also because of the quality of its finishing. As with every modern Patek Philippe watch, it is adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal. As we told you recently, the strictest of quality control standards are exerted in the manufacturing of every single component of the watch – the movement, the case, dial, hands, et al. – with rigorous standards applied to form, function, and accuracy.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - Caliber

A close look allows us to see the polished, beveled angles of the bridges and of the levers; the straight graining of the several elements that compose the chronograph; the polished screw heads and slots; several gold chatons; and Geneva stripes that continue from one bridge to another. The beauty of this movement also comes from its pleasantly deep layout, which permits viewing of all the gears’ and levers’ motions when activating the pushers. Some long-term Patek Philippe’s collectors may prefer the older Lemania’s bridges, but this one is actually very nice, too. The chronograph does (of course) use a column wheel with a vertical clutch for its engagement – the column wheel is, as is usual with Patek Philippe, hidden by a protective cap (that you can see on the photo above, in the lower part of the movement). The chronograph itself is very classical, with a bi-compax architecture displaying the measured seconds with a central hand, the minutes in a subdial at 3 o’clock and the running second in a subdial at 9 o’clock. Finally, it comes with the precise Gyromax balance wheel, using a free sprung architecture.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - glove

The movement is not the only interesting element here, and turning the watch to the dial side also shows complications. The perpetual calendar components are not visible through the sapphire caseback, as they are positioned on the top of the movement. However, the dial provides lots of information, with a clever and legible display. The day and month are indicated in two windows at 12 o’clock. The date and the moon-phase indicator are displayed in a third sub-dial at 6 o’clock. What is new compared to the previous reference (Ref. 5970) is the way it indicates the leap year and the day/night function. Previously, these two were positioned inside the chronograph’s counters at 3 and 9 o’clock and used hands to point out the information. Not the most practical and legible layout, as it was easy to get confused between the different hands. In the 5270, Patek Philippe has chosen to use two small apertures – at 4:30 for the leap year and at 7:30 for the day/night indicator. The dial gains increased legibility and aesthetic purity from that aesthetic decision.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - on wrist

Another change (like we said, every aspect has been changed or improved) is in the case, which has a diameter of 41 mm instead of 39 mm. It is slightly bigger, but remains in the classical and reasonable category (consider the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Chronograph, which is 42 mm, and the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down, which is 41 mm). It is made of 18k white gold and comes with an interesting, typically Patek shape – convex bezel, complicated lugs, and rectangular chronograph pushers. The case remains quite thin at 12.4 mm, and positions itself really well on the wrist. The overall appearance of the luxury fake Patek Philippe 5270 is refined, complicated and elegant. The minor changes to the design give us a cleaner and more modern watch.

Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Blue - front CU

The last of the changes, and also new for 2014, is that blue color combination (both for the dial and the strap). Originally available in white gold with a white/silver dial, it is now possible to have the 5270 in blue, a less classical color and perhaps, therefore, easier to wear with a casual outfit as well. Even if blue is a cold color (especially when paired with a white-gold case), this new edition is, nonetheless, more appealing. The dial is not plain but slightly guillochéd, with a sunburst pattern, and thus gives off really nice reflections (that were unfortunately hard to capture during our photo shoot). The contrast with the white gold hands and applied indexes and the white inscriptions is excellent and allows for very good legibility. Furthermore, the blue remains serious enough for Patek’s lovers but adds an extra attractiveness to a very classical reference.

Swiss replica of the mystery watches

1. Why would I want to purchase a Swiss replica?

There may be several reasons:

1) You want  agenuine Rolex watch, but the price is higher.

2) You want to impress your friends or business clients

3) You want to put replica through wear and tear because you don´t want to damage your genuine Rolex

The main reason why you want to purchase a Swiss replica instead of a regular replica is because it is almost impossible to tell the diference between our replicas and the real thing. A regular, China-made, and even the Japan-made fakes, are mass-produced. That is why they don´t have all the fine details and the craftmanship of a genuine Rolex.

2. Are all Swiss replicas on the net the same?

No. Just like the Asian replicas, there are 2 grades of qualities even for these Swiss replicas. The first grade, which is the type some retailers (and try to represent them as 25-jewel ETA replicas), carries a movement that is a copy of the Swiss ETA movement. Although these are very high is quality as well, the truth is, you are not getting a genuine ETA movement, nor are you getting the same craftsmanship as in our only Swiss replicas.

3. What EXACTLY are the movements of these Swiss replicas?
The movements of these Swiss Rolex replicas vary. Either the Valijoux 7750 25/31 jewels , or a Swiss ETA 25-jewel 2834-2 or 2836-2 movements. ETA is the name of the Swatch-owned Swiss company that produces high quality automatic movements for all kinds of discount luxury watches, including genuine Omega and Tag Heuer watches. The 2834-2 / 2836-2 movements are part of the ETA Mecaline series of movements, and the 25-jewel movements are able to make 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). They all have the hacking signal found in real Rolex watches (when you set the time, the second hand stops sweeping) and they all have an extremely durable construction through over 200 years of ETAs solid reputation. As a matter of fact, ETA has recently just produced the 200 millionth movement for Swatch alone. The movements simply are some of the finest in the world.

We guarantee you 125% of your money-back that we ship out ONLY Swiss ETA 25-jewel 2834-2, 2836- 2 or ETA Valjoux 7750.

4. How sharp are the fonts on the face?

The fonts on the face are all accurate and extremely sharp. No one can ever tell the difference just by looking at them, or any other parts of the watch. Check out some of the close-up pictures for more information.

5. Can you swim in them?

Yes, you most definitely can! The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass face will make sure the watch holds together even at great depths. The top quality solid stainless steel construction will prevent salt water from eating into the watch. And the fine craftsmanship will guarantee your watch will never break down under water.

6. You say your watches are 99% exact to the real thing. Where did the 1% go?

If we say that our watches were 100% exact to the real thing, Rolex would be out of business. What you can expect is an amazing watch that will last you just as long as any genuine Rolex. The Swiss replica contains genuine Swiss-made parts, and is individually hand-crafted just like a genuine Rolex. The biggest difference between our watches and a genuine Rolex is that our watches do not undergo the same tests that a genuine Rolex undergoes. The procedures our manufacturer use to test the watches is slightly different, and less strict. Nevertheless, the watch is constructed to perfection and we guarantee that you will not be disappointed with it in any way.

7. Will the materials on your watches ever fade?

Not on our solid 14k or 18k gold watches. You may have seen cheaper fakes that have faded on you in the past. That is because all watches that are not Swiss replicas cannot afford to use solid stainless steel, or even real gold. The stainless steel on those watches are just plated on, and the gold is always fake gold. The thin plating usually lasts for a few months only on Asian replicas, before the acid on your sweat starts corroding it. After that, the stainless steel/fake gold will wear off, and all you see is a cheap base metal. Even on the higher quality Japanese Replicas, the genuine gold is plated much thicker. However, it will eventually fade off after few years.

 However, on our triple-wrap watches, the gold will usually last you several decades before it wears off. Theoretically, the gold on the triple-wrapped  cheap replica watches for sale never wear off. It is usually the salt from very acidic sweat that will eat into the gold. This causes the gold to corrode. Genuine gold will simply turn a very dark, black color, whereas triple-wrap gold can slowly wear off because of chemical reactions. Therefore, any type of gold is always advisable to be kept away from very acidic sweat and salt water. Maintenance tips are always included with every watch to insure an extended lifetime for decades to come!

Like the old adage goes… you get what you pay for. And we guarantee it 100%.

8. Can these really fool everyone?

Yes, nevertheless, we will hold no liability at all for what you do with these Swiss replicas after they have been sold, because of the nature of their quality. Many jewelers have been fooled in the past, and there really is no way of telling the difference other than opening up the watch and taking a look at the movement.

9. Are the pictures on your site taken from the actual replica or the genuine watch?

You may be amazed by some of the pictures we have up on our website. Because of their quality, you might think they are from catalogs of the genuine watch. But that is NOT true! We have an in-house professional photographer taking the pictures for us, and he has taken pictures for a few watch catalogs before.

We guarantee 100% that all pictures taken from our site are actual pictures of our Swiss Rolex replicas! The best qulity swiss replica watches look exactly as represented in the pictures, and we never, ever use anyone elses pictures, or pictures of the genuine watch. If you have any doubts at all about buying the watch, just remember that we have a money-back guarantee, so you have nothing to lose!

10. How do your Swiss replicas compare to a genuine Rolex and cheaper fakes?

Print a comparison chart of Swiss replicas vs. genuine Rolex watches

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

We’ve noted previously here on fake watches uk WatchTime.com the prevalence of blue dial/blue strap combos on lots of modern watches. Today we focus on one of these timepieces, the Sixties Panorama Date, from Glashütte Original’s retro-styled Senator Sixties collection, offered this year in a striking midnight blue version.Glashutte Original Sixties Panorama Date - front

Glashütte Original, based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the German state of Saxony, launched its Sixties line, originally part of its Senator collection, in 2007 and has added to the family in subsequent years. This watch derives its name from the large “Panorama” date above the 6 o’clock position, a hallmark of the brand and of Glashütte watchmaking in general. The watch’s dial is domed and made of German silver, which is galvanized in Glashütte Original’s own dial factory. Its shiny azure hue is enhanced by a sunburst finish. There are Arabic numerals, in a ’60s-vintage font, at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions, surrounded by precisely milled hour indices and finely drawn minute markers.

The white-gold hour and minute hands are slightly curved to echo the slight curvature of the dial and are highlighted in Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel case of the Sixties Panorama luxury fake watches Date is 42 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 30 meters. It has a sapphire crystal with nonreflective treatment on both sides and an additional sapphire viewing window in the caseback that shows off the watch’s automatic movement, Caliber 39-47. The movement measures 30.95 mm in diameter and 5.9 mm thick and has a frequency of 28,800 vph and power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The finishing on the movement includes beveled edges, polished steel parts, a three-quarters plate with Glashütte wave decoration, and a swan’s neck fine adjustment; the latter two features are also traditional to Saxon watchmaking.Glashutte Original Sixties Panorama Date - hero

Many watch enthusiasts will appreciate the details of the watch’s signature complication, the panorama date. Whereas the date windows on many colored watch dials use standard black-on-white typography, which can distract from the dial’s coloring, this one features white type on midnight blue to maintain the consistency of the color scheme. The Louisiana alligator leather strap is also in a matching dark blue color and is secured by a stainless steel pin buckle. The Glashutte Original Sixties Panorama Date is priced at $9,200; there is also another midnight-blue Sixties watch — minus the big date function, containing Caliber 39-42 and in a replica watches 39-mm case — available for $7,100.

 

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge

Oris, long known for its fake watches sale professional-grade divers’ watches, achieved a watch-world milestone with its Oris Aquis Depth Gauge, introduced in 2013. It is the first divers’ watch that measures depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece — a feature that would normally be a serious divers’ watch no-no.

The patented system in the Aquis Depth Gauge uses the principle of the Boyle Mariotte law — named for the two scientists who discovered it — which states that if the volume of a gas is decreased, the pressure increases proportionally. How the system works is thus: the watch’s sapphire crystal, which is a full 50 percent thicker than an average one, has a channel milled into its side that runs counterclockwise to the dial and stops between 1 and 2 o’clock. A small hole at 12 o’clock leads to the channel, while a rubber gasket seals the join between crystal and case.Oris Aquis Depth Gauge - front

As the diver descends wearing the watch, the surrounding water pressure compresses the air inside the channel and allows water to seep in through the inlet at 12 o’clock. The edge of the channel changes from light gray to dark gray to differentiate between water and compressed air, indicating the depth, in meters, on a yellow scale printed on the inside of the crystal as the diver descends or ascends. Unlike other watches with depth gauges, there is no inertia in the system, which means no delay in displaying the actual, accurate depth indication.

Other features that make the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge suitable for professional diving are its stainless steel case, which luxury fake watches uk is water-resistant to 500 meters and has an engraved meters-to-feet conversion scale on the screw-down caseback so international diving enthusiasts can make quick calculations; its unidirectional rotating bezel, with minute scales on a black ceramic inlay; and the easily adjustable folding clasp, which also has an “anchor” safety feature that prevents the watch from falling off the wrist.Oris Aquis Depth Gauge Dial CU

The movement is the automatic Oris Caliber 733, based on an SW 200, which powers the central hours, minutes and seconds and the date display at 6 o’clock. The dial’s indices and hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova, which, Oris says, offers excellent underwater legibility. The case’s screw-down security crown is embedded into and protected by a stainless steel safety barrier.

The watch, which comes on a rubber strap, is packaged in a special waterproof case with several useful accessories: a replacement metal bracelet, a set of tools to change the straps; a certificate with details on the Aquis Depth Gauge’s technology, and a specially configured cleaning device for the sapphire crystal. The whole ensemble will replica watches for sale cost you just $3,500.

 

Cartier Gets Serious: The Evolution of Cartier Men’s Watches

In recent years Cartier, the fake watches sale for men king of haute joaillerie, has begun storming the bastions of haute horlogerie. In this full-length feature WatchTime’s Joe Thompson explores the intriguing origins and bold future initiatives of Manufacture Cartier.Cartier Santos 100 Skeleton

In April 2008, Cartier startled the watch world with the introduction of its first ever Geneva Seal watch, the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon. At the time, some watch industry observers (including this reporter) considered it a stunt.Cartier is a genuine watch power; it is either the second- or third-best-selling Swiss watch brand in the world after Rolex. (Omega and Cartier both claim to be number two.) However, famously French Cartier had no tradition of making mechanical movements in-house and no watch manufacturing roots whatsoever in the canton of Geneva, which is a key requirement to earn the allegedly prestigious Poinçon de Genève. So how did Cartier get the Geneva Seal?

In 2007, Cartier’s parent company, Richemont SA, acquired the production facilities of Manufacture Roger Dubuis in Geneva, which specialized in making Geneva Seal movements. Cartier promptly took over an atelier in the Dubuis facility and installed 10 master watchmakers there. The flying-tourbillon caliber they produced there, the 9452 MC, is based on a Roger Dubuis design. Voilà: Paris-based Cartier, with watch production facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Fribourg, Switzerland, was transformed into a Geneva Seal brand. Technically it was legit. But the question lingered: Was the expertise really Cartier’s or was it Dubuis behind a Ballon Bleu facade? Two years later, it’s clear that it really was Cartier. What some saw as a stunt was actually a shot, an opening salvo announcing Cartier’s emergence as a bona fide mechanical movement producer with serious ambitions in high horology.Cartier Santos 100 movement- back

In the past two years, Cartier has rushed with Usain Bolt-like speed into the high-mechanical men’s market. It has unveiled 17 new men’s mechanical watches and nine new manufacture movements (including another Geneva Seal movement), at least six of them conceived, developed, prototyped, and produced entirely in Manufacture Cartier, the firm’s giant watchmaking facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Among them is a new base automatic caliber, 1904 MC (for Manufacture Cartier), the first Cartier has produced in-house. It was launched this year in a new Cartier men’s watch collection, Calibre de Cartier. Caliber 1904 MC will be the base movement for future Cartier automatic models, including those with complications.

Perhaps the most surprising new development at Cartier — and the best evidence of its burgeoning high-mech might — was the presentation last November of the Cartier ID One, a concept watch developed by Cartier engineers that may be the world’s first watch that never needs adjusting. The watch is loaded with innovative mechanisms and materials, inside and out, such as hairsprings made of Zerodur, a balance wheel made of carbon crystal, an oscillating weight coated with amorphous diamond-like carbon and a niobium-titanium case. It is currently ticking away in the research-and-development department in the manufacture under the engineers’ watchful eyes and promises to deliver new advances in high horology for future Cartier watches. (For details, see “Cartier’s Concept: A No Adjustment Watch” in the January-February 2010 issue of WatchTime.) All of these developments have left watch collectors and aficionados surprised, impressed, and confused. They identify Cartier more as a maker of jewelry, scarves and handbags for their wives than of high-mech marvels for themselves. What, they wonder, is going on?

What’s going on, according to top Cartier executives from Paris and La Chaux-de-Fonds, is a new chapter in the firm’s long, often illustrious watch history. Cartier execs acknowledge that Cartier today is more of a ladies’ line: it is the world’s top producer of jewelry watches. In the United States, for example, women’s models account for two-thirds of Cartier watch sales. Cartier execs also acknowledge that they are somewhat late to the luxury-mechanical-watch party and, at this point, don’t bring a lot of high-mech credibility with them. Nevertheless, they point out that their conversion to mechanical movement manufacturing is in keeping with Cartier’s identity as a maison (French for “house”) whose craftsmen and women historically produce its own luxury products, and with its heritage as a pioneer in men’s wristwatches with icons like the Santos and Tank.

Nor is Cartier’s mechanical conversion as sudden as it might seem. Cartier International CEO Bernard Fornas says its new men’s mechanical watches have been in development since 2005. They reflect a strategy undertaken on Fornas’s watch to shift the firm from being a mechanical-watch assembler relying on a network of suppliers for movements and parts to being a vertically integrated manufacture. To that end, Cartier has quietly spent a fortune over the past six years developing in-house the mechanical watch know-how it needed. The mission was not simply to have Cartier replica watches for lady uk take its place as a watch manufacture next to Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Söhne, Piaget and other sister firms within the Richemont Group. It was to make movements that reflect Cartier’s image as a paragon of creativity and design. That has led to a dramatic transformation in Cartier’s watchmaking operations. Cartier decided to start making its own mechanical movements a year or so after Fornas became CEO in 2002. Cartier then, as now, produced several hundred thousand watches annually (the firm does not disclose the exact number). It was already vertically integrated for its quartz-watch production, a legacy of the 1980s and 1990s when Cartier was a quartz-watch powerhouse. In the 1990s, 80 percent of Cartier’s production was quartz. It produced almost all (90 percent) of its quartz movements in-house and manufactured a significant percentage of its cases and bracelets.

For its mechanical watches, however, like many Swiss watch firms, it was an assembler, relying on a network of outside suppliers for its mechanical movements. A decade ago Cartier’s movement supplier network worked well, says Jean-Kley Tullii, director of Manufacture Cartier, a 15-year Cartier veteran. The factory had access to mechanical movements from suppliers within the Richemont Group like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget as well as a number of prominent outside suppliers like Girard-Perregaux. By 2004, however, with demand for mechanical watches soaring, rising to 40 percent of Cartier output (it’s now up to 50 percent), the movement issue came to a head. “Rapidly, we noticed that the network didn’t support the level of quality that we wanted,” Tullii says. There were other issues, too, like delays in getting deliveries of movements and concerns about securing spare parts from movement suppliers for future watch repairs. Overriding everything was the issue of what Cartier execs call “legitimacy.” “You cannot ask someone else to make the product for you,” says Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the movement development chief at Manufacture Cartier. “At a certain point you have to do it yourself.” As Fornas puts it, “Nobody is better served than by oneself.” Gradually it became clear that Cartier must become master of its mechanical-watch fate. Says Tullii, “We said, ‘OK, we have to invest and master all the steps.”Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon

As part of the reorganization, Cartier hired from outside and developed inside the talent it needed to make mechanical watches for its Fine Watchmaking collection. It built a movement development department around the highly respected French-born Forestier-Kasapi, who worked with Giulio Papi at Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi before joining Cartier 10 years ago. She now oversees 20 people. Cartier’s R&D department has 12 engineers. For the last half of the last decade these people were nestled in their new ateliers in Manufacture Cartier engaged in a frenzy of mechanical watch activity, developing all at once Cartier’s first in-house automatic movement, a slew of new mechanical movements, and the ID One concept watch. The result is a series of new Cartier men’s watches notable for their design creativity and technical ingenuity. Take the two watches containing Cartier’s first mechanical movements created and produced entirely in-house, the Santos 100 Skeleton and Rotonde de Cartier Central Chronograph, introduced last year. The Santos 100 Skeleton differs from other skeleton watches in that Forestier-Kasapi designed the movement to display the time. Her patented design shaped the movement’s bridges to form Roman numerals at the XII, III, VI and IX positions. Caliber 9611 MC is square-shaped to fit the palladium Santos case. Another novelty is the fine-adjustment pointer designed in the shape of Cartier’s stylized “C.” Cartier designers use the “C” motif freely on various watch parts. Another example: Cartier’s new Calibre de Cartier Flying Tourbillon watch ($130,000) — one of two new Geneva Seal watches it introduced AAA grade replica rolex this year, bringing the total to five — has a C-shaped tourbillon carriage.

 

Watch Test: Porsche Design P’6620 Dashboard

If you dream of one day best sale replica watches uk online owning a Porsche 911, you can fill your time until then with luxury articles from Austria-based Porsche Design, like this Porsche Design P’6620 Dashboard chronograph watch. Read our test of the watch with photos by OK-Photography.

Porsche Design watches are made by Eterna, the 150-year-old watch manufacturer based in Grenchen, Switzerland. The P’6620 Dashboard chronograph has a precisely engineered, 44-mm case made of PVD-coated titanium; a seamless, smooth-fitting link bracelet with an invisible clasp; a large, fluted crown and grooved pushers, and a finely decorated ETA 7753 movement with a specially shaped rotor inspired by the spokes of a Porsche wheel. The watch is striking and sporty yet understated. Its details are harmonious without being boring. The high edge of the dial and its almost vertical minutes track provide unusual depth, even though the watch as a whole is not very thick, only 14.5 mm. All of the type used on the dial, including the date and the tachymeter track, are in Porsche Design typography – a pleasure to look at, especially when compared with the mismatched typefaces from other manufacturers.Porsche Design P'6620 Dashboard Chrono - back

The 7753 used in this watch is ETA’s “top” grade; it has a Glucydur balance and was thoroughly pre-adjusted by ETA. Although the movement is not certified by COSC, the rate results it achieved on our timing machine met COSC standards. The average gain was quite low: 4 seconds per day when the chronograph function was on and only 2.8 seconds per day when the function was off. The greatest deviation between the various positions remained within the range of acceptability (9 seconds). Very high quality fake watches similar individual scores with the chronograph switched off and on show excellent workmanship on the gears and arbors. When the watch was worn, it showed a gain of only 1.5 seconds per day.

We found only two points to criticize about the P’6620. First, to change the date you must press a button on the left side of the case instead of turning the crown. This requires using a ballpoint pen or other pointy object – not a good idea with a coated case. Second, the dial is not perfectly legible. The ends of the central hands are too far away from their tracks and the chronograph counters have only one or two numerals each. And what about the price? Is it necessary for a chronograph with a mass-produced movement to cost $6,100? It may not be necessary, but it’s understandable when the quality is superior and the watch is from a desirable brand. The new Dashboard has both attributes, although it may never be a collectors’ piece. The simple, harmonious sports-watch design will continue to please any wearer, even after his own 911 is finally parked in the driveway.

Pros
+ Harmonious, understated design
+ Nicely fluted crown and pushers
+ Finely decorated movement

Cons
– Time displays are not perfectly legible.
– Date cannot be changed using the crown.

SPECS:Porsche Design P'6620 Dashboard - front-back
Manufacturer: Eterna SA, Schützengasse 46, CH-2540 Grenchen, Switzerland
Reference: 6620.13.46.0269
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counter; date; hack mechanism
Movement: Automatic ETA 7753, “top” grade; 28,000 vph; 27 jewels; Etachron regulator; Incabloc shock absorption, 48-hour power reserve; diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.9 mm
Case: Bead-blasted titanium with PVD coating; curved sapphire crystal with double-sided nonreflective coating; fully threaded back with sapphire window; screw-down crown; water resistant to 100 meters
Strap and clasp: Bracelet and safety     folding clasp made of bead-blasted titanium with PVD coating
Rate results (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on):
Dial up         +4/+2
Dial down         +7/+5
Crown up        +5/+4
Crown down        +1/+1
Crown left         -1/-2
Crown right         +8/+7
Greatest deviation of rate    9/9
Average deviation    +4/+2.8
Average amplitude:
Flat positions        296°/281°
Hanging positions        267°/251°
Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm, height = 14.5 mm; weight = 168 grams
Variations: Rubber strap; titanium case; white dial and titanium bracelet or white rubber strap; rose-gold case buy aaa replica rolex and calfskin strap ($36,500)
Price: $6,100

SCORES:
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points):                 8
Operation (5):         4
Case (10):         8
Design (15):     12
Legibility (5):     3
Wearing comfort (10):     8
Movement (20):     13
Rate results (10):     7
Overall value (15):     12
TOTAL: 75 POINTS

 

Time for Her: 7 Ladies’ Watches For Your Last-Minute Gift Consideration

It’s a few days before Mother’s replica rolex aaa online store Day and you still haven’t found the right gift for the woman who raised you? Read on. We offer a sampling of new women’s watches to make your last-minute shopping a snap.Piaget Extremely Piaget Jade watch

 The Dior VIII Grand Bal Fil de Soie has an 11 1⁄2-ligne automatic caliber that’s inverted so that the rotor is on the dial. The rotor itself is highly unusual: the rose-gold oscillating weight is woven with a single 1.5-meter-long pink silk thread and set with diamonds. The dial is made of black mother-of-pearl. The 38-mm case is made of ceramic and rose gold with a diamond-set bezel. The watch has a 42-hour power reserve. It comes on a black patent-leather strap with a rose-gold buckle, also set with diamonds. $46,500.

Chanel’s Mademoiselle Privé collection features design motifs associated with Coco Chanel, like the camellia, on artisanal dials. The Mademoiselle Privé Décor Caméllia Maki-e employs an ancient Japanese technique to outline the flowers on the black lacquer dial. In maki-e, the artist applies metal powders or decorations (like gold, mother-of-pearl or quail eggshell) to the lacquer before it dries. Here, the camellias are made of yellow-gold paillons. The watch has a yellow-gold case with a diameter of 37.5 mm. The bezel is set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds and the yellow-gold crown has an onyx cabochon. The watch has an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It comes on a black satin strap. $40,000.

The dial of the Hermès Arceau Millefiori 41 mm was made by the same technique used to produce the well-known Millefiori paperweights. It involves slicing rods of colored crystal glass into thin cross sections and arranging the pieces next to each other, so that they form what best replica cartier uk looks like a dense bed of small flowers (millefiori means “1,000 flowers” in Italian). The watch’s case is made of white gold. The movement is the automatic H1837, which Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier makes exclusively for Hermès. The watch has a transparent sapphire caseback. Price upon request.

The new Lucea collection from Bulgari contains 12 models, all with round cases and cabochon crowns set with diamonds, but with a variety of dials and different combinations of rose gold, steel and diamonds. There are two case sizes, 28 mm and 33 mm. The smaller models have quartz movements and the large ones are automatic. The price as shown is $27,400; the others range
from $4,200 to $41,600.Van Cleef & Arpels Astronomie Poetique Zodiac - Sagittarius

This timepiece is from Piaget’s latest collection, Extremely Piaget, which was inspired by jet-set glamour and the 1960s and ’70s, when Piaget introduced hard-stone dials on watches. The watch shown was influenced by a Piaget watch from 1965 that had an oval jade dial set with diamonds and emeralds and was owned by Jacqueline Kennedy. The new model has a natural turquoise dial set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds and four natural turquoise cabochons. It has a rose-gold case and a buy fake watches uk supple, gold-mesh bracelet that is similar to the original version. Price available upon request.

Look, Ma, No Hands: 10 Watches That Tell Time Differently

The vast majority of watches stick to best sale replica watches uk traditional hour and minute hands to display the time, but a handful of bold manufacturers use their technical prowess to find new, innovative, and often downright audacious methods to indicate the hours, minutes, and occasionally even other functions. Below is a list of unusual watches that deviate from the conventional time-telling style, finding creative alternatives to hour and minute hands.Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo

Introduced at Baselworld 2013, the HM3 Megawind by MB&F features a movement designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht that features an oversized “battleaxe” rotor. As with other MB&F “horological machines,” the hour and minute are indicated by revolving cones, machined from solid blocks of aluminum to paper thinness, housed inside larger cones made from brazed gold and sapphire. Click here for more info on the watch.

HYT’s H1 does away with the hour hand, instead indicating the hour by means of a green liquid that flows through a tube along the edge of the dial. This unconventional watch is famous for being powered by a system of bellows used to pump the liquid forward. Click here for our detailed analysis of how the HYT H1 works.

A year after it introduced the H1, HYT brought out the H2 model (titanium/white gold version below), which added three additional functions: a power-reserve indicator, a temperature indicator and an “H-N-R” indicator. The latter is connected to the crown and tells the wearer which position the crown is in — H for setting the time, N for neutral, and R for winding (remonter in French).

Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1 features buy fake watches online a tourbillon and uses magnetic fields to create the illusion of hour and minute indicators floating through the air. Two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter – are encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband and controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The position of each sphere indicates the hour and minute.

One of the most unconventional timepieces in the always-innovative Harry Winston Opus collection is the Harry Winston Opus XI, with its futuristic, moving dial. Every hour, on the hour, in the span of 2 or 3 seconds, the numerical hour display – a system comprised of a multitude of wheels, pinions, arbors, bearings and tiles – disintegrates into utter chaos and then returns to order for the remainder of the hour. Click here to discover how this watch’s miraculous movement pulls off this feat.Urwerk UR-210 “Maltese Falcon”

The most recent Harry Winston Opus watch, the Opus XIII, debuted at Baselworld 2013 and offers another off-the-wall method of telling time. It sports 11 triangular hour hands around the dial’s center that retract at the end of each hour, and 59 little minute markers that pivot toward the center of the dial as a new minute begins. Click here to watch a video displaying how this watch works.

In 2006, Jacob & Co. ventured into haute horlogerie (courtesy of now-defunct BNB Concept) with the groundbreaking Quenttin watch, which featured a 31-day power reserve, a vertical mechanical movement and a vertical tourbillon.

Ulysse Nardin’s Freak Diavolo tells the time via “hands” which are really parts of the watch’s movement, with a flying tourbillon indicating the seconds. To set the time, one has to rotate the bezel rather than setting the “hands” via a crown.

As expected form Urwerk, the unconventional brand’s UR-210 “Maltese Falcon,” eschews traditional hands for a set of rotating “satellites” to indicate the time. The watch also contains an “efficiency indicator,” which indicates winding efficiency.DEVON Tread 2 Godiva

The Devon Tread 2 (shown here in the new chocolate-toned “Godiva” model) displays the time by means of horizontal and vertical belts, made from a strong, flexible nylon material used in airplane luxury fake watches sale cockpits and operated by an electronically controlled pulley system.

 

Comparison Test: TAG Heuer Monaco and Breitling Chrono-Matic Watches

In this watch test feature best sale replica watches uk our writer Jens Koch and photographer Nik Schölzel pit modern versions of two iconic 1970s chronographs — the TAG Heuer Monaco and the Breitling Chono-Matic — against each other in a challenge of retro sports watches.TAG Heuer Monaco-Breitling Chrono-Matic watches

The generation that came of age in the 1970s loves to revisit its memories of that time. And because the youths of those days have become the heavy-hitting customers of today, many things that were popular then are experiencing a rebirth. The success of the new muscle cars and the return of the Lava Lamp are proof. In the 1970s, watches — like men’s ties — were large and colorful. Experimentation with shapes and dimensions was the norm, and we see this trend emerging again today. It’s no wonder that we’re seeing models from the “Me Decade” reissued in a more or less revised form. As different as our two test watches appear at the outset, they do have a common origin that begins in 1969. That’s when the first automatic chronograph movement, called Caliber 11, was introduced, launching a new age. The ébauche manufacturer Büren Watch supplied an automatic movement with a microrotor for which Dubois Dépraz provided a chronograph module. Two watch companies, Breitling and Heuer (predecessor of TAG Heuer), provided financing and aided in developing the technology. It was fitting that these firms were the main beneficiaries of Caliber 11. The first watches with this movement — the predecessors of our test watches — appeared that same year.

Like other watches with this automatic chronograph movement, they were easy to spot: their crowns were on the left side of their cases, opposite the pushers. Operability won out over nostalgia in the new versions: both have their crowns in their traditional positions on the right side.Breitling Chrono-Mat 49 - profile

In other facets of their outward appearance, however, both brands’ watches remained true to their predecessors. TAG Heuer retained its rectangular contours with gently curved flanks. At first glance the Breitling’s case appears to be an oval, but it is actually an octagon. Even the sizes of these two watches correspond almost exactly to the original versions that were introduced 39 years ago. This is particularly surprising for Breitling, since even by today’s standards the diameter of 49 millimeters is enormous, exceeding the earlier model by only one millimeter (assuming the Chrono-Matic Ref. 1806 was used as its base model).

From this direct predecessor, the Chrono-Matic 49 tested here distinguishes itself in particular with its size (reflected in the name of the model), the repositioned crown on the right side, and a price that is almost $2,700 higher than the TAG watch. The new version also has a 12-hour fake watches online store counter at 6 o’clock and a rubber-coated bezel. The bezel on the 1969 watch was also black, though then it was blackened steel. At that time, Breitling introduced the model as a modern interpretation of the famous Navitimer pilot’s watch, and like this watch it had a slide rule that was not directly moved by the bezel but by a gear within the case. This feature has the advantage of better handling and a more secure way to seal the case. The dial design was updated without affecting the harmony presented in the original.

TAG Heuer also retained much of the 1969 Monaco. The case shape and size correspond to the original, as does the blue dial design with its two square subdials. Even the hands are the same. Some of the “mod” elements were eliminated, such as the horizontal hour markers that were placed outside the minute track, and red highlights were used more sparingly this time in order to present a more updated design, but there is no doubt about the watch’s DNA. TAG Heuer also offers a more conservative version with a black dial and black subdials. Like all models of that era from Heuer, the name Monaco was taken from a famous auto race, the Grand Prix at Monaco. The watch’s most famous appearance was in the 1971 film Le Mans, in which actor Steve McQueen wore it in his role as a driver for the Porsche 917 Gulf Team. The Swiss racecar driver Jo Siffert, who led the team in real life, also wore the Monaco. And like the Breitling, the Monaco contained an exciting new movement that, for the first time, united a practical self-winding mechanism with a chronograph and had an avant-garde design that distinguished it from every other watch on the market. Many of these features are still apparent, though more so in the more exotic Monaco than in the Chrono-Matic, whose look is really rather modern.TAG Heuer Monaco - Profile

Both watches present top-of-the-line finishes on their cases. Breitling’s efforts include the rotating slide rule and rubberized bezel. Surfaces are carefully polished, the caseback is engraved and both sides of the sapphire crystal are nonreflective. The oversized crystal makes the Breitling appear even larger. The Monaco’s curved crystal is made of acrylic, as before, which means it’s quite susceptible to scratching — but a sapphire crystal would have been an extremely expensive addition. TAG Heuer must secure the caseback with screws due to the shape of the case, but the seal would have been tighter if more than four screws had been used. Breitling uses a luxury fake watches sale structurally superior screwed caseback, but specifies the same water-resistance as TAG Heuer (3 ATM), so neither is suitable for swimming.